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Renovation Testimonial

Steven,

we are thrilled with the renovation you and your team did for us!  The remodeled bathrooms (3), hardwood floors, built-in bookcases, recessed lighting and windows, and replaced deck are all perfect!  Everything looks absolutely great and was done on schedule and within budget.  Everyone was very knowledgeable, easy to work with and had lots of great recommendations. Thanks so much for EVERYTHING you all did – We truly appreciate the workmanship,expertise and total experience!

– Steve & Ann Swope

How to: Make a DIY Modern Concrete Fire Pit from Scratch

How to: Make a DIY Modern Concrete Fire Pit from Scratch

 

There’s nothing better than enjoying your outdoor living space with the glow of a fire pit. Now that the weather is getting nicer for late night hang outs lets check out this simple DIY project.

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This version is cast of affordable, weather-resistant concrete that creates a sleek, modern look. It’s portable but sturdy, and uses gel fuel, making it possible to have a quick 30-minute post grill session fire. It take a bit of care and proper prep, but this could be made in just a few hours for well under $50 in materials.

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Tools and Materials: 

 

CASTING THE BOWL

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Creating this project is all about two components: finding the right materials and working safely. For the main fire bowl, we used the largest mixing bowls we could find. Check your local restaurant or party supply store for extra-large options. I opted for a plastic punch bowl for the outside because I liked the profile shape, and a stainless steel mixing bowl for the inside.

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Working with concrete isn’t difficult, but it does require some finesse. First, it’s fairly heavy and can be difficult to mix in large batches by hand. Secondly, it’s extra important to use the proper safety gear to prep and execute your project. Work outside or in a well-ventilated area, and cover your work surface with plastic. I covered my bench in a plastic drop cloth, and taped everything down with ScotchBlue™ tape.

 

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Also, be sure to wear proper safety gear to protect your eyes, skin, and respiratory system. For this, I consulted with 3MDIY.comfor their suggestions of the best products from their 3M Tekk Protectionline. I went with an N95 valved dust mask for sanding and grinding, and long sleeves and refinishing gloves to protect my arms and hands. For my eyes, I opted for these Walter White-style safety goggles, which not only protect from debris but also dust and irritants. Plus, I prefer them when wearing a respirator or dust mask, since they seal tightly and don’t fog up.

 

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1. Once you’re all prepped, spray your molds with non-stick spray. This will help release the concrete once it’s dry. A thin, even layer over the inside of the outer mold/outside of the inner mold will do.

 

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2. Then, mix up your concrete. It’s hard to determine how much you’ll need, but it’s better to mix up more as you start than to rush to create more in the middle. I used about 1/3 of a bag for this project, adding water a little at a time until the mix formed a thick, cookie batter-like consistency. Make sure you’re wearing your safety gear here; this is the time when most of the particulates and irritants are flying around.

 

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3. Then, use the trowel to add the concrete mix to the outer mold. Fill it about half full, then check the inner mold to see how high the concrete comes up to the side. It’s okay to take the inner mold in and out a few times, just make sure you don’t lose all your non-stick spray. (You can wipe it clean and reapply). A friend or extra pair of hands is helpful here. Then, use weights or rocks to keep it in place. Some things to watch out for:

  • As you place the inner mold, make sure that it’s centered so your bowl will have an even thickness all the way around
  • Keep the lips of the bowls coplanar for an even, symmetrical finished product
  • Adjust the weights so that you have the biggest inner bowl as possible while keeping the structure thick enough to be strong. You’ll want to be sure that there’s enough space on the inside to place your gel canisters beneath the lip of the bowl.

 

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4. For a super smooth finished surface, try this tip (I picked this up years ago from an episode of This Old House, I think): use something with a motor to vibrate the bowl to remove any air bubbles inside the mold. Here, I’m using my reciprocating saw without a blade, but anything will work: a powered sander, an oscillating or rotary tool, even an immersion blender.

One it’s settled and things are no longer moving, allow the concrete to cure according to the package directions. (48 hours-ish)

 

FINISHING THE BOWL

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5. When your concrete has cured, carefully remove it from the mold. I lightly tapped on mine with a rubber mallet, first removing the inner bowl, then freeing the outer. It’s solid at this point, so don’t be afraid, but do be careful since it’s quite heavy.

 

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6. Use a coarse sanding pad (60-80 grit) to clean up the top lip, and give everything a nice rounded profile. Again, since you’ll be generating a lot of fine particulate dust, wear your safety glasses, gloves, and dust mask.

 

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Wipe away the debris, then give the whole thing a round of fine grit (220) sandpaper. Since concrete doesn’t have any fibers or grain like wood, you don’t have to work your way up. Any sanding is just the removal of irregularities or smoothing things up.

 

ASSEMBLING THE FIRE PIT

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7. Lastly, take it outside, and place the gel fuel canisters inside. I found mine at a local fireplace/swimming pool/outdoor recreation store, but you can find them in some hardware or home improvement stores or online.

 

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8. Place the grill grate in the bowl. The one I used was a 14.5″ bottom grate (for the charcoal, not the cooking surface) for a Weber kettle grill. It rested perfectly about 1/2″ from the surface of my 15″ internal diameter bowl. If you can’t find one, you can cut a larger one to size with a hacksaw or grinder, or create your own from hardware cloth or steel mesh.

9. Then, cover the grate with a layer of rocks. I’m using “Mexican beach pebbles” that I found at a garden center. These are commonly used with fire, so I can be sure they’ll stand up to the heat and won’t explode into flaming shrapnel with extended use. So, just be sure that whatever rocks you’re using are appropriate for the purpose.

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LIGHT IT UP!

While the flames on these aren’t bonfire-sized, the gel canisters put out quite a bit of heat, and all kinds of fun ambiance. At some point, I’d like to make a few of these and place them around my patio or deck. (At some point, I’d also like to have a patio or deck). But, for about $40 in materials (many of which I can reuse), I have a great, easy-to-use backyard fire solution, that requires nearly zero work to start or snuff out, and can keep our outdoor hangouts going well past sundown.

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source: manmadediy

Are You Thinking of Spray Painting a Table?

Are You Thinking of Spray Painting a Table?

Did you see a side table someone was throwing out, but it didn’t quite match your style? Go grab it anyways and just paint it! Well not so fast, it’s not always as easy as it seems. There are a few things that go into painting furniture that most people don’t think of. Like where you’re painting, when you’re painting and how much time you’re taking. Are you using spray paint or bucket paint?

Here’s a project someone did where they used spray paint and had some…sticky…results.

 

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The project came out great, and really adds that pop of color the DIY’er was looking for. The only problem is the top of the table is a little sticky and doesn’t seem to dry out no matter how long he waits. Days, weeks it could take forever! And the reason is pretty straight forward, essentially if you paint a piece of furniture (spray or bucket) you have to make sure it completely dries before painting a second coat and third coat. If you don’t let the undercoat dry all the way it will essentially try and push the moisture up through the top coat which causes that sticky or tacky feeling. The best time to do a project like this is on a warm dry day or inside if you have that option. This person painted this table when it was a little chilly out and some moisture in the air and so now the tacky top has messed things up.

 

One solution I’ve come across was to sprinkle the top of the table or the tacky surface with baby powder, spreading evenly across the surface. Let that sit for about an hour if possible. Once the powder has set, vacuum it all up! This, done a few times will pull all the moisture from the surface. I haven’t tried it yet, but have come across the answer a number of times.

 

One blog had a nice step by step for painting which you can check out right here.

 

Check Out This GREAT DIY Pallet Coat Hanger

This is a great project to spruce up your entry way with minimal requirements and easy to make! You can wow your guests with great color and pop.

coat-hanger

Source:

 

What you’ll need:

  • Discarded pallet
  • Standard screws
  • A few different paint colors – 1 can of white primer
  • Hooks, which can purchased at Ikea or Lowe’s
  • Hanging kit which can also be purchased at Lowe’s – This kit is great and holds a ton of weight